Melasma Treatment Options and Tips

Do you have age spots or brown spots on
your face? Have you tried product-after-product or
treatment-after-treatment and they seem to come-, they fade a little bit, and
they come back? Or have you been jumping from video-to-video finding the “BEST
product for hyperpigmentation”? If you have, you’ve come to the right place
because today we are going to be talking about the BEST ingredients to look for
in hyperpigmentation. However, everyone responds to ingredients and everyone’s
Melasma is caused by different factors, so if you haven’t watched that, please
watch the “3 *TRUTHS About Melasma” in our last video. Hi, my name is Christy and
I’ve been treating clients with hyperpigmentation, Acne, and other skin
conditions for over eleven years. And so we’re gonna be talking about and
focusing on SPECIFIC hyperpigmentation ingredients that may work best for you
as well as some treatments, and we’ll go into some of the pros and cons. If you
have stubborn or more larger areas of Melasma and you are not pregnant or
planning to become pregnant, or you’re not breastfeeding that these are the
following that you may want to consider, and also if your budget allows for it. As
I mentioned in my last video, professional treatments are the most
QUICKEST and the most EFFECTIVE way in treating, especially larger areas of
Melasma. So the first one we’re going to be talking about is LASERS. Lasers can be
very effective in treating Melasma, however, here are some cons or here are
some individuals that may be contraindicated to laser treatments. So
the first one is, now we’re talking about traditional laser treatments. For
traditional laser treatments, if you are a Fitzpatrick Skin Type four, five, or
six — which is the more darker skin types — this may NOT be beneficial for you.
Another thing is, is because laser, the traditional laser treatments that use
heat, heat can cause inflammation, this also is a contraindication and it may
not be quite as effective. There’s also another process that some professionals use
after using the laser treatment, it’s a skin-cooling kind of procedure where
they cool the skin right after doing the laser procedure, and some studies have
shown that when they’ve done that, in some individuals hyperpigmentation can
actually come back SOONER, and I will link in below to the source of that
study. So this study was first published in the journal of Archives of
Dermatology in the September issue, and it was done on 23 Thai women, and the
average age was 43. And what they found was, that when they did the cooling procedure
after the laser, they were three times MORE likely to develop hyperpigmentation
two weeks after treatment. So if you’re considering laser, laser procedure for
your hyperpigmentation, make sure it’s not the traditional laser treatment. So
my suggestion is, is if you would like to proceed with looking into laser
treatment, I would recommend that you would speak to at least THREE different
laser technicians before deciding on if laser is right for you, I am just telling
you some precautions that you may not hear from the laser professional. Another
recommendation I have is this is actually based on a couple of my own
clients when they went and did some laser treatments. Make sure that ask them
if they have a PRE-treatment and a POST- treatment to prep your skin before the
laser and actually products that they can recommend to reduce the inflammation
so not more hyperpigmentation forms later. The second one is CHEMICAL PEELS.
And I understand that some of you just by hearing “chemical peels” it scares you, and it should! Make sure that it is an EXPERIENCED, LICENSED professional that
is administering these chemical peels. I’ve had some clients buy them online,
administer it on themselves, and they actually ended up getting additional
hyperpigmentation scars from Glycolic Acid burns. I actually had one client who
had very, very fair skin, red hair, actually PORCELAIN skin, and she used
Glycolic Acid — which when you’re a Fitzpatrick one and she-,
she did that… PLEASE don’t do that! Please go see a LICENSED professional in your
area, even if it’s just to get a consultation to see if you are someone
who is, who would work well with chemical peels. Do NOT do this at home! I see
YouTube videos of this all the time and it’s like, you’re using an ACID PEEL.
And then one of the things I asked her was, “Okay, so did you use a neutralizing
solution to stop the burning?” and she said, “What is that?” So that just gives you
an idea. So make sure you go see a licensed professional with that, and you
can do a series of treatments. The other thing is you need to understand, you
don’t know how your skin is going to respond to these chemical peels, so you
want to start off with something that is not that aggressive, see if your skin
responds nicely to that, and then work your way up to the more aggressive
chemical peels. Make sure you don’t-, this is Summertime, so even though I’m talking
about chemical peels, you should NOT be doing a chemical peel. There is one that
you can use that is very friendly, it is more of a Peptide Peel versus an Acid
Peel, so don’t do any Acid Peels in the Summertime because that, that can
actually exacerbate hyperpigmentation. And when you do this, you, you NEED to
have products, they work, they go hand-in-hand to prep your skin, get your
skin ready for the low pH you’re about to encounter, as well as
anti-inflammatories and calming your skin, and hydrating your skin so that you
don’t have any more inflammation post-treatment. Peels need to be well
monitored, here is another thing. So I’ve had clients where they started it and
their skin started to look beautiful, it literally started to fade away a lot of
the patches, and because they it was fading they stopped coming… and they
stopped mid-treatment, they stopped coming. And then yo-, like, two years later,
they came back and they said, “My Melasma started to come back!” and I said, “You
didn’t finish your treatment.” So it’s really important that you FOLLOW
DIRECTIONS of the licensed professional, okay? And needs to be well-monitored and
well-managed. You have to remember, Melasma did not
develop overnight, it not, it did not develop within
a week. It takes YEARS for it to show up on the Stratum Corneum. By the time you
start seeing it on the top layer of the skin, it had already been forming deep,
down below. So you cannot expect any product or any service to eradicate your
Melasma overnight, that’s just not realistic. So some of the more common
ingredients that they use in these acid peels can be Glycolic Acid, Azelaic
Acid, Hydroquinone, Jessner’s Peel, for those of you who are Fitzpatrick four, five, an six,
do NOT start with an aggressive peel just because your skin tends to not be
sensitive, start with a lower one, because you are more prone to hyperpigmentation. It also gives the opportunity for everyone involved — you and the
professional — to see how your skin responds days and weeks after the
service and to decide whether to go to do a deeper peel and to move forward. Or
if it’s too strong, to take it down a notch. Skin lightening-and-brightening
products that you use basically BOOST the efficacy of the professional
treatments that you’re doing, that you’re doing at home, as well as helping to
manage and keeping them at bay when you’re at home on a daily basis. So
that’s where they have to go hand-in-hand.
Now the one of the most common ingredients that you’ll see in this is
HYDROQUINONE. And Hydroquinone is actually a skin-bleaching agent. It has
been shown to be very effective in a prescription level — which is up to 4%.
Hydroquinone has been effective in studies when used in combination of
Hydroquinone, Tretinoin, and a steroid. Now again,
everybody is different and I know some of you are saying, “Oh! I’m gonna make a
comment right here!” Okay, yes. Hydroquinone is a controversial subject in the
skincare circles because it is OUTLAWED in Japan, the European Union, and
Australia because some studies have shown it’s been linked to cancer, it’s
been linked to problems with the adrenal glands, and some studies have shown that
it can be occur-, it’s considered ah carcinogenic agent. The FDA has put in
that they want to make Hydroquinone outlawed — or they want to ban it — it
hasn’t yet. So, I’m just letting you know. I’m, I’m not, I’m not saying Hydroquinone is
good, I’m just stating the facts. So PLEASE don’t attack me on Hydroquinone,
I’m just telling you what is being used, what’s effective, but also the cons of it.
Also they do recommend that if you are planning to get pregnant, if you’re
breastfeeding, those are contraindications, and if you decide to
use Hydroquinone, they do not recommend using it extended past the four months.
So after the four months, if you decide to use it, if you decide to use it then
they do recommend switching off Hydroquinone and then using other known
lighteners, or brighteners, such as, you know, Vitamin C, Kojic Acid, Licorice Root,
these are basically Tyrosinase inhibitors. So instead of actually
bleaching your skin, what they do is they actually PREVENT the formation of
pigments to cause hyperpigmentation. This is NOT recommended for dark-skin
individuals. Okay, moving on. Another one is Kojic Acid, that’s al-, that’s
considered a Tyrosinase inhibitor, so that is actually a very good alternate
to Hydroquinone. Because it not only lightens the skin, it actually inhibits
pigmentation formation. It is recommended for those who are sensitive to
Hydroquinone, but again, extended use of this can also lead to, for some
individuals, Contact Dermatitis. Azelaic Acid is a non-toxic fatty acid, it’s
naturally occurring, and it is a good alternative to people who are sensitive
to most lightening agents, and it’s really, it’s been shown to prove to be really effective in
treating Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, especially Acne scars. And in some studies have been shown to be as effective as 4% Hydroquinone. So
the next one is Licorice Root Extract. It is an anti-oxidant, it prevents oxidation,
and it’s also known as a Tyrosinase inhibitor, so it’s also a
lightener. The other one that is less likely to cause any irritation, as we
talked about before if you’ve been watching the videos, is Niacinamide. So
yes, Niacinamide is an anti-oxidant, but the great thing about this — TADA! — is that it actually prevents the Melano- somes from delivering the Melanin to the
Keratinocytes. So — and it’s also known as a Vitamin B3. So not only isn’t it an an
anti-aging agent, it actually helps PREVENT pigmentation without the
irritation that a lot of the ingredients can — not that it will — it can inflame some
sensitive skin types. This one actually also I have found to be better with Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, so if you have both, this may be one that’s kind of
combining two-in-one. So, if you don’t know the benefits of a Niacinamide, we
actually did a video. So if you haven’t seen the “6 Benefits of Niacinamide”, you
don’t know exactly know what Niacinamide can do for your skin, then go ahead and
click on the link below and look at our anti-aging playlist. So remember, make-up
is an ART, and skin care is a SCIENECE. And we will go more in-depth with products
in our series. So, thank you for watching.

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